Method of making shoes



M. BROCK.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION men MAYB. 1919.

Patented Apr. 26, 1921.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

M. BROOK.

METHOD OF MAKlNG SHOES.

APPLICATION FlLED MAY6.1918.

Patented Apr. 26, 1921;

2 SHEETSSHEET 2.

/NVENT[7R.

PAT-5N? UFIFh-Sfi- MATTE-IZAS snooze, or sos'ren,

EEAiEEFSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB TO siren TEACHINEBY COB-P03131 I, 0."PATH-RS011 NE'W .51 (lORlOBATIGN OF NEW JERSEY.

LEETHQID Gli I'IIAKING SHOES.

1 376 381 specification of Letters Patent. 1 3 531111 6 Apr, 26, 19551.

Application filed May 6, 1918. Serial No. 232,917.

the drawings indicating like parts in the eral figure iliiS inventionrelates to improvements in nlcthods of ma 4. A

end of a shoe to prer sewing aronnd the end. *nproverent in shes makingmethods liable to both the heel and toe ends ,es and in accordance witlthe practice ericinplified is c actcrized by the ,g of "ialsewhich mayinclude the nd stiffener, to a shoe form and the marginal portion of thetread face a produce flange upstanding nelinite angle re 'vely to thetreat til 0 c of the form located a predetermined distance inwardly fromthe edge of the tread face,

=ogether to provide a multithe sid faces of the orcing each other thetread face lied distance from ed together at their ons to a flangeupstanch inc sulwstani.

tread fa at wardl rrom its edge.

This molding operation may be preliminary to lasting and, in that event,greatly facilitates the subsequent lasting operation, or, with thecheapergrades of shoes, it may entirely supersede the lasting operation,the molded upper with the end stiffener being stitched to the shoe soleby means of the molded flange which will form a sewing flangecooperating with the sewing rib of the sole. Certain classes of shoeswith a. molded upstanding sewi have what is known as sewed heel seats,the upper at the heel seat being sewed, and not nailed as usual, to theheel end of the insole, and the ontsole also where one is used beingattached by stitching. V

A conspicuous example of a shoe having a sewed heel eat is found in theso-called powder mill shoe which is sewed entirely around the heel endand is without an at tached heel because of the danger of explosion fromheel nails or pegs. To illustrate the practice of method of thisinvention, therefore, I have selected this type of shoe as embodyingstructural requiriments to which my improved method shoe tim nnl' isparticularly applicable. Shoes of ti s t, pe must have permanence ofshape,

he cheaply manufactured and contain no tacks or nails in the heel scat.My iinpreved method of shoe making, when practised in the manufactureor. shoes 01" this type, sl tl r and end to the rem. L see with thenecessity of s1v sequent lasting st p and provides the up with sewinginges -for.stitching to the sewinis, as previously 2 ted. i or"narticuer advan' 3e at the heel ll t which l1CSS?lll sew 1 and cannotnailed, anl .ccordinely. for the purpose lllHStlatlT-Jf the n actice ofthe method, l

end of a shoe of the It is to he understood, however, t ctice of themethod is not necessarily limited to shoes of this type or to the heelends of ices.

In the anpended illus :rstive drawings, Figure l shows a powder millshoe upper with the upper and heel stiffener stock molded to the desiredform and provided flange in this invenno 1 Lil accordance with themethod of tion,

Fig. 2 is a vertical section on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1 and shows themolded and flanged heel seat end of the shoe,

Fig. 3 is a vertical section through a last having mounted on its treadface an insole having a sewing rib around its heel end to which theflanged and molded upper is to be stitched,

Fig. 4 is a view of the shoe upper as assembled on said last and sewedwith a welt to the heel seat portion of the insole,

Fig. 5 a view of a completen shoe having'a sewed heel seat,

Fig. 6 shows in perspective portions of an apparatus which may he usedto practice the method and Figs. 7, 8 and 9 illustrate successive stepsof the method as practisel by the use of the apparatus shown in Fig, 6.

In practising my improved method in the manner illustrated in connectionwith the heel ends of powder mill shoes the upper and unmolded heelstillener or counter are mounted upon a shoe :lforni functioning as aninner mold and conforming to the shape of the rear en d of the sh e,although preferably slightly e2; qgerated as to the side contours so asto over mold and allow for the reaction of the steel: from thestretching and compressing action in molding. The stock, including theunniolded heel stillener or counter. is then clamped and moloed to theside facesoi the shoe form by a; outer mold of corresponding shape whichis closed against the inner mold under suhstantir. pressure. The ustanding portions oi th upper stock including tieheel stiffener thenmolded inwardly over and down on th marginal tread face of the form i ai molding instrumentality, such as ed wiper plates, and the marginalportions of the stock at a pr determined distance from the edges of theform are molded tov hetreen said rigir. wiper plates a flange forming);ace of a second rigid molding member superposed in c 1 osition on thetread face or" the term to produce a upstanding; the tread face atdefinite angle determined if. the angular TGlfltlOIl of the side orflange ing face of said second molding m l. the tread face of the formthis angle eraolv. producing a. flange extendin stantially'ierpeudicularly to the trend of the form or inner mold.

lVith the heavy stiff upper materials it he necessary to repeat thismolding "operation a numher or times to set the The molded upper andheel stiliener are r then removed from the shoe form and the heel end ofthe shoe is ready to he sewed to the insole. Wit-h powder mill or othershoes, the toe portion of the upper and toe sti'ilener may be similarlymolded to a suitably shaped shoe form and the margin of the uppercorrespondingly shaped by suitable molding instruinentaliti s afterwhich the upper and welt are stitched to the sewing rib of the insolewhich extends entirely around the shoe. The shoe is then subjected tothe usual trimming and filling operations and an outsole is applied andstitched to the welt in the usual manner.

In the illustrative drawings the molded heel end 2 of the shoe upper isshown as having a horizontal portions molded with the heel stiffener orcounter 8 over the heel lace parallel with face th marstitched to thesewing rib or the insole together with a strip of welt-lug 18 igs.

aid 5), an outsole 2G being subseuently applied over the insole andstitched o the welt in the usual manner.

One form of apparatus by the of which the method may he practised isshown and claimed in my copending; apiiication Serial No. 235814- liledon May 2l. I l 8. a: d portions of such apparatus are herein illusinFigs. 6 to 9 inclusive. although it will he understood that the practiceof the method is not depeiident upon. the use of apparatus of this or ofany other specific orm. As illustrated in Figs. 7 to 9. the end the up}:1' materials. including unniold d 7 I p heel stiiiener i clamped eroum.

a shoe end form 22 by the use of an outer clamp nielnher or mold intooperative l'ela i n to which the form 22 is mov ed rearwardly from itsidle position indicated in 6, the margin of the materialsprojectingbeyond the bottom face 26 or": the form a suitable distance toprovide the sub-- sequent melding of the margin to produce the requiredinturned and upstanding flange portions. The form 22 supports on itshot-- torn face a flange forming plate 28 provided with a rib whichprojects within a guideway 30 in the form to guide the plate formovement l ngthwise oi the form. A stop screw 32 projecting into a slotin the plate 28 determines positively the limit of forward movement ofthe plate. and by engagement with set screw 36 which. is threaded in theplate determines also adjustuhly the limit of backward 'movement of theplate.

rgiu or 7 The plate 28 is normally helt at its limit of backwardmovement by means of a spring plunger 38 in engagen'ient with one arm 40of bell crank lever the other arm 42 of which bears against the outerend of the screw 36.

The plate 28 has an outer edge contour similar to the.

22, although of smaller curvature, and 1 1 ll tie plate may bepositioned, for example, as shown in Fig.

if its edge face sub- "he rea end face of the ned the edge face of V irages the uostanding margin of t ,als around the rear end of the f rminitially agains as pressure of end eml' racing wiper plates one ofwhich is shown at l, these ple. being moved forso wart y and closed inlat :ally of the form in any suitable manner, an their inner'edgeshaving a contour such as to press the margin of the upper firmly againstthe edge face of the plate 28 around its rear end and along its sideswhen the wipes are in closed position. ce to Figs 7, 8 and 9 it will bet e wipers begin to close in- .te :28 is pressed yieldingly its gnidewayagainst the re- 0 controlling mechanism, thus 1 e upper materialsclosely against h wipers around the end of th the curvature of the materials is ronounced and where the margin 33 must he gathered as it iswiped inwardly, he yielding plate thus contributing to smoothness anduniformity in the gathering or ciwiping of tie materials and assistalsoin causing the materials to be held i .l ed upon effectively by t 1e per1 "Les L-llSll" verwiping operation. P ore the entire width of themargin of r aaterials has been stripped from the wi sis and the innerplate 28 bottom face of the her forward movement of the opped by theresistance of the nd the plate then se es as an outiient against whichthe poshe materials still up increased molding the continueo movement ofthe rates, these plates se g .-ly to he ma materials a iinst the face ofthe plate 28 along both sides ell as around the rear end and to form pangle in the materials in conformity A agile between the edge face ofthe i ii the bottom face of the form. if desired, and in accordance withone aspect of the method, the overwiping operation be repeated aplurality of times to produce a cumulative molding effect upon themargin of the upper, the wipers being prefera ly retracted onlypartially from -l (n he) C p i the spring plunger 38 by means of a latchd6 which engages the end of the arm 40 to hold it upraised in theposition to which it is moved by the first advance of the plate 28.Finally the wipers are backed entirely the upper is released fromclamping p *ssure between the inner and outer forms, and upon release ofthe-arm d0 by the latch the plate 28 is returned to its initialposition.

the practice of the described method the heel end of a shoe upper andthe uninoloed counter may be molded to a form and provided with a flangeupstanding at a de -ite angle with relation to the tread face of form atthe heel seat and located a the ret eterinined distance inwardly fromthe of said face whereby the shoe upper so molded may be united to aninsole with said flange'stitched to a sewing rib extending around theheel seat to provide a sewed heel seat, as hereinbefore explained. Aspreviously pointed out, this same method may also be practised in themolding of the toe of the shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what 1 claim new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is That improvement 'amethods of maktogether to produce multiply structure fitting the sidefaces 1. heel form, molding the marginal port upper ant. stiflenertogether inwardly over the heel seat face of the form for apredetermined distance parallel with said face, and moldv lg the saidmarginal tions together substantially perpendicrr v to said into anupstandin flange extending around the end of the heel seat.

2. That improvement in methods of preparing shoes to be sewed around theend which consists in molding an upper and an end stiffener together toproduce a multipl structure fitting the lateral contour of a shoe endform and in which structure the plies of material molded togetherreinforce each other, molding the marginal portion of the materialstogether inwardly over the tread face of the form for a predetermineddistance, and molding the said upper and stiffener together betweenunyielding molding instrumentalities into a sewing flange standingsubstantially perpendicularly to said tread face around the end of the.form.

That improvement in methods of preparing shoes to be sewed around theend which consists in positioning the end portion of upper materialsaround a shoe form, and molding the margin of said materials between andin contact with rigid molding instrumentalities to produce a flangeupstanding at a definite anglewith relation to the'tread face of theform around the end of the form and located a predetermined dis tanceinwardly from the edge of said tread face.

' 4. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe uppers which consistsin positioning upper materials about a shoe form with the margin of thematerials projecting be yond the bottom face of the form, clamping saidprojecting margin in upstanding relation to the bottom face of the formand carrying the margin thus clamped inwardly over said face whilepermitting it to slip and shaping a portionof it in parallel relation tosaid face, and then holding substantially stationary a portion of themargin still clamped in upstanding relation to the bottom face of theform and increasing the pressure against said upstanding portion to moldit in that relation to the form.

5. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe uppers which consists inpositioning the end portion of upper materials around a shoe form withthe margin of the materials projecting beyond the bottom face of theform, wiping the margin of said materials inwardly over the bottom faceof the form, pressing against the inner surface of the margin of thematerials as the wiping progresses to hold the unwiped portion upturnedfrom the bottom face of the form, and before the entire width of themargin has been wiped down upon said face opposing substantiallyunyielding resistance against the inner surface of the portion stillupturned and increasing the pressure against its outer surface toproduce a molded flange extending at a pronounced angle to said face.

6. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe uppers which consists inclamping the end portion of upper'materials around a shoe form with themargin of the materials projecting beyond the bottom face of the form,gathering and wiping'the margin of said materials inwardly over thebottom face of the form around its end, applying yielding outwardpressure against the inner surface of the margin of the materials c011-tinuously around the end of the form as the wiping progresses to causethe materials to be gathered substantially free from wrinkles and wipedsmoothly down upon the bottom the end portion of upper materials around7 a shoe form with the margin of the materials l projecting beyond thebottom face of the form, wiping the margin of said materials inwardlyover the bottom face of the form, pressing yieldingly; outward againstthe inner surface of the margin of the materials around the end of theform as the wiping progresses to hold the unwiped portion upstandingfrom the bottom face of the form, before the entire width of the marginhas been wiped down upon said face opposing substantially unyieldingresistance against the inner surface of the portion of the margin stillupstanding and increasing the pres sure againstits outer surface toproduce a molded flange projecting at an angle to the bottom faceof theform and repeating the overwiping and pressure applying operationagainst the outer surface of the materials while continuing to opposeunyielding resistance against the inner surface of the upstandingportion of the materials.

8. That improvement in methods of shaping shoe uppers which consists inclamping the end portion of upper materials around ashoe form with themargin of the materials projecting beyond the bottom face of the formgathering and wiping the project ing margin of the materials inwardlyagainst the bottom face of the form around its end throughout a portiononly of the width of said margin, and then opposing substantiallyunyielding resistance against the inner surface of the unwiped portionof the materials while holding said portion upturned and increasing theinward wiping pressure to mold the inner portion of the margin into aflange upstanding at a pronounced angle to the bottom face of the form.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

" MATTHIAS BROOK.

